I ran a restaurant for over a decade before I picked up a camera for a living. I know exactly what it looks like when a room fills up with people who all think they're the one holding the operation together. Half of them are. The other half are there because someone assumed they had to be. Fashion photography in Toronto has the same problem, and it costs clothing brands money they didn't need to spend.
Somewhere along the way, apparel shoots picked up a reputation. Stylist, hair and makeup artist, photographer, two assistants, a producer standing off to the side with a clipboard nobody reads. Walk into a shoot like that and it looks important. It also looks like a lot of people getting paid to stand near a rack of shirts.
A small clothing brand doesn't need a film crew to make a hoodie look good. It needs good light, a model who knows how to hold still without looking like she's holding still, and someone behind the camera who understands what the fabric is doing.
That's it. That's most of the job.
I've shot for boutiques in Toronto and Oakville that were convinced they needed the whole production before they'd even booked a date. By the time we talked it through, we'd cut it down to a model, myself, and maybe one person steaming garments between looks. The photos came out fine. Better than fine, honestly. Nobody looking at the final images could tell you how many people were in the room.
Why would they? The client sees the shirt. They don't see the seating chart.
When a brand books me for apparel work, here's what actually shows up. Two lights, sometimes three if the space fights me. A couple of backdrops. Clamps, pins, a steamer I've owned longer than some of my lenses. And me, moving around the model instead of asking her to move around a fixed setup, because that's faster and it looks less staged.
If hair and makeup matter for the shoot, I'll say so up front. Not every clothing shoot needs it. A brand doing flat product-adjacent apparel shots, the kind that live on a product page next to sizing charts, doesn't need a makeup artist booked for the day. A brand doing a lookbook with a real editorial feel probably does. I'll tell a client which one they're actually doing, because a lot of them don't know, and nobody else in the process has an incentive to tell them.
A stylist gets brought in when there's an actual styling problem to solve. Layering, tailoring on the fly, choices about what pairs with what across twenty looks. If a brand already knows its own line, that's their job, not mine, and I'm not going to invent a role that doesn't need filling just to make the invoice look heavier.
Models get hired based on what the shots are for. A campaign with a real budget can carry a couple of models and a wardrobe assistant. A seasonal update to an online shop can run on one model and a fast pace. Both are legitimate. They're just not the same shoot, and pricing them the same is how brands end up either overpaying or underdelivering.
Here's the part that annoys me. Brands that trim the crew usually don't put that money back into anything useful. They just treat it as savings and move on. Wrong move.
Put it into more looks. More angles on the pieces that actually sell. A second location if the brand has more than one aesthetic to cover. I'd rather shoot fifteen looks with a lean crew than five looks with everyone standing around watching me work.
Apparel photography lives or dies on repetition anyway. One perfect shot of a jacket does less for a brand than six decent shots showing the jacket from the front, the back, in motion, folded, worn open, worn buttoned. Volume matters here in a way it doesn't for a hero shot of a plate of food. Clothes get worn a hundred different ways by a hundred different bodies. The photos should acknowledge that.
A full day of apparel photography with a tight two or three person team runs in the range most Toronto brands can actually plan for, usually landing somewhere between $1,500 and $3,000 depending on the number of looks and whether we're shooting on model or on a form. That's a real number for real output, not a stripped down version of something bigger.
I'm not against big crews. Some jobs genuinely need them. A campaign shoot with multiple sets, wardrobe changes on the fifteen minute mark, a client team that needs to approve looks in real time, sure, bring in the people. But most of the apparel work coming out of small brands in the GTA doesn't need that, and paying for it out of habit is just paying for a room to feel busy.
I'd rather the room feel quiet and the photos do the talking.
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